Gili Trawangan, Indonesia

Gili Trawangan: Adventure Travel in Indonesia

Measuring just 4.8 km (3 miles) at its widest point, the Indonesian island of Gili Trawangan is little more than a pin prick in a country that can boast over 18,000 islands spanning across 4,800 km (3,000 miles). It is located between the popular vacation hotspots of Bali and Lombok, yet tourism on Gili Trawangan itself is low-key and unobtrusive. This is due in no small part to its basic infrastructure. There are no paved roads, no motorized transport or indeed any supply of freshwater – the very things that make it such an attractive place for adventurous travelers in search of that elusive desert island experience.

The island’s natural scenery is the stuff of dreams – blindingly white sandy beaches fringed by swaying palms and crystal clear waters. Its southern and western shoreline offers the majestic sight of smoldering Mount Rinjani on nearby Lombok, an active volcano rising to over 3,960 m (13,000 ft), and the sacred volcano of Mount Agung on Bali.

Due to its proximity to the equator, Gili Trawangan enjoys a typical tropical climate with hot temperatures year-round, reaching close to 32°C (90°F) on average. Between the months of May and November there is virtually no rainfall whatsoever. Outside these months, Gili Trawangan is prone to irregular monsoon-style downpours, which can cause some minor flooding in the interior of the island, although temperatures remain high and humidity is sometimes oppressive.

Due to the climate and topography, there is no major agro business on Gili Trawangan. It is simply too dry and the soil too salty for rice cultivation. Hardy crops, such as corn and potatoes, are grown in small numbers along with exotic fruits, including papaya, banana, mango and pineapple. There is some livestock farming and dairy production, but the island is far from being self-sufficient. Most supplies are shipped in from Lombok, which adds around 20 percent to the average household food bill. However, what Gili Trawangan does have in abundance is seafood. There are still virtually unlimited stocks of exotic barracuda, snapper, squid, tuna and shrimp, which all form the basis of a nutritious and inexpensive diet for most islanders. It is not uncommon to see very young children with their fathers fishing from the pier for their supper or even skindiving with harpoon in hand.

However idyllic this may sound, life on Gili Trawangan, as in many parts of Indonesia, is a struggle to make ends meet for many people. Perhaps around 20 percent of the working population is employed directly or indirectly within tourism. This includes a small number of guest houses, restaurants, dive shops and tourist gift shops and grocery stores. Wages in this sector are generally the highest, but rarely reach above $3 a day on average. There is, however, a strong work ethic, which has seen many men and women set up small enterprises in addition to full-time jobs. Examples include fruit and vegetable sellers, traditional artists, mobile snack sellers or as freelance guides. Unsurprisingly, with a breadline economy such as this, very little is wasted, every natural resource is used and seemingly every flowering plant has a use for seasoning or medicinal purposes. There is also a relatively lucrative economy in recycling plastic, glass and aluminum waste products.

Faith and family values form the social fabric of island life for its predominantly Muslim population, which numbers around 1,200 residents. The island’s two simple mosques are at the heart of everyday life and the place to discuss, socialize and gossip. Islam on Gili Trawangan and in most of Indonesia is different from how it is practiced in the Middle East and combines old animist beliefs and elements of Hinduism.    

The island has a busy calendar of religious and cultural events throughout the year, days on which the whole community comes together in celebration. Spectacular colorful parades of schoolchildren in traditional dresses are a vivid feature of Independence Day, which is held on August 17 each year. The end of the fasting month of Ramadan is marked with a chaotic fireworks display, music, feasting and traditional Sasak dancing. Accompanied by the hypnotic sounds of a bamboo gamelan orchestra, these traditional dances see extravagant gilded costumes and effigies of witches, lions and dragons telling the age-old story of the fight between good and evil. Movements are slow and graceful and can be performed by men, women and children. Other events, such as weddings, births and even funerals are commemorated in style with traditional entertainment and music, usually lasting through the night.

Local community facilities on Gili Trawangan are very basic with just a small public health clinic, a fruit market and an overcrowded village school. The latter acts as the main public arena for community events, such as music concerts, traditional dances and even wedding receptions. Both the clinic and the school are subsidized through business donors (local businesses) and like the rest of Indonesia, there is no access to completely free health care and education, even for families in most need. However, medical fees are affordable and range from $2 to $5 for a consultation and treatment of regular illnesses. There is no specialist medical care or dedicated support for pregnant women on the island. The cost of education is also within the budget of most people with fees of around $75 for each child per semester.

With little disposable income, leisure and entertainment are not a priority for most families. However, the island's natural scenery offers idyllic and free fun for island residents. Surfing is the main pastime among teens, and the crystalline waters around Gili Trawangan provide some of the finest snorkeling in Southeast Asia, inhabited by sea turtles, reef sharks and bottlenose dolphins. Children are taught to swim from an early age, and it is not uncommon to see kids happily splashing around in the surf under a hot sun all day long.

The island is powered by a diesel generator operated by the state-run PLN Company. Power outages are common. There is no natural freshwater supply on Gili Trawangan. Islanders have to rely on daily deliveries by boat from Lombok and again, shortages occur regularly. Most households have access to a communal or an individual saltwater well, which provides enough water for showering, but people have to buy freshwater or use collected rain water for cooking.

Unique even within Indonesia, Gili Trawangan, along with the neighboring islands of Gili Meno and Gili Air, is completely self-governed and has no police presence. Every aspect of daily life is overseen by an elected village head known as the ‘Kepala Dusun.' This includes the legal system, the collecting of taxes, civic planning and even domestic disputes. To many outsiders, the island's justice system is seen as somewhat medieval. Swift and severe in most cases, all decisions are made directly by the village head and are legally binding. There is no access to representation or a 'fair trial.' For example, a resident convicted of petty theft would be “frog-marched,” or forcibly paraded around the island for all to see, wearing a placard stating the misdemeanor. He or she would then have to complete one day's hard labor community service before being unceremoniously expelled from the island indefinitely. It certainly works as a deterrent as even the most minor crime is extremely rare.

Gili Trawangan's major claim is as a world-class scuba diving haven with a handful of PADI-registered dive operators offering courses for all skill levels. Visitor accommodation is generally in basic beach huts and homestays with just a few mid-range hotels and villas. Costs range from as little as $7 a night for a small bungalow with a fan and en-suite coldwater shower to around $150 for a private villa with swimming pool. Accommodation can be booked online or through travel agents on Bali or Lombok.

There is a small but regular influx of tourists through the year. Gili Trawangan is still regarded as a backpacker haven despite continuing price rises. Generally, the best time to visit is in May and June when the island is at its most radiant and lush after the rainy season and cooling sea breezes keep temperatures relatively comfortable. During these months, accommodation prices are also much lower than in July, August and September.

There are several daily direct boat journeys to the Gili Islands from Bali, which range from inexpensive slow ferries at $17 one way to super-fast speed boats, which can cost up to $65. Public ferries are also available through the day from Lombok, and in late 2010 the island will see the opening of a new multi-million dollar airport facility in South Lombok, which will be able to accommodate direct long-haul flights.

Virtually all tourist facilities on Gili Trawangan are centered along a half-mile beachfront strip in the south of the island. Here one can find a number of restaurants, guest houses, dive shops and travel kiosks. Just a five-minute walk inland and the atmosphere changes completely. Here it offers a peaceful, low-key 'kampung' or traditional rural village lifestyle filled with rickety bamboo shacks, grazing goats, cows and roosters.

Gili Trawangan offers just enough facilities to make a stay rewarding and comfortable, yet still has an undiscovered desert island appeal. Although it is slowly increasing in popularity each year, it serves as the perfect example of responsible, sustainable tourism with the entire island and its coral reefs designated an eco trust and very strict planning laws in place.    

About the Author

After several years on the road in Southeast Asia, full-time travel writer Ray Montgomery finally settled on the tropical Indonesian island of Gili Trawangan. He now works from his beachfront 'office' with nothing more than a cell phone, laptop and sunscreen. Free time consists of fishing, surfing, teaching English in the local village school and looking after three demanding children.