Lake Baikal, Russia

Lake Baikal: Adventure travel in Russia

Lake Baikal holds many impressive titles. Nestled among the vast steppes and taiga forests of Siberia, Baikal is the world’s oldest and most voluminous freshwater lake, housing a staggering twenty percent of the world’s freshwater. Stretching over 600 kilometers (370 miles) long and surrounded by ice-capped mountains, this awe-inspiring natural wonder is often described as the ‘sapphire of Siberia.’

Located 70 kilometers (43 miles) from the quaint town of Irkutsk, Lake Baikal is one of Siberia’s most beautiful and pristine environments. Few lakes in the world boast the same level of biodiversity as Baikal - over 2,000 species of plants and animals inhabit the crystal clear waters, with many, such as the Baikal seal, found only in this area.

During the coldest months of the year (January to May), the surface freezes up to a thickness of three meters (9.8 feet). At the height of winter, it is thick enough to support small vehicles. During this time, the mountains surrounding Baikal are covered in heavy snow, forming a stunning, dramatic backdrop to the lake’s frozen surface.

Twenty-seven islands exist within Lake Baikal, with the largest, Olkhon, offering spectacular taiga forests, steep mountains, remote camping and bushwalks. Olkhon Island has a permanent population of around 1,500, consisting mostly of Buryats, the island’s aboriginal people. Olkhon is known as the historic centre of shamanism, and a museum of history and nature can be found at the island’s largest village, Khuzir. The nearby ‘Shaman Rock’ is one of the region’s most sacred places and is said to be the home of local spirits. Buses for Olkhon Island depart from Irkutsk most days. For more details, visit www.waytorussia.net/Baikal/Destinations/Olkhon.html.

Most buses from Irkutsk to Lake Baikal arrive at the holiday town of Listvyanka, where visitors can sample local seafood from one of the many stalls along the shoreline. Cold- or hot-smoked omul, the area’s most prized local fish, can be found hanging above the stalls in the midsummer sun or tucked away in coolers beneath the counter.

If you’re feeling brave, a dip in the icy waters of Lake Baikal is said to increase longevity and cure a range of ailments. So pure and clean is the water that you can drink it straight from the source, and many people walk down to the shore every morning to fill up buckets and plastic bottles. Beaches along the lake are small and often packed with sunbathers, but even in summer the locals don’t stay in the lake for too long. With the water temperature rarely getting above 6°C (43°F), not even the hardiest of swimmers stay in for more than a few minutes at a time.

Those wanting to get further offshore can jump aboard one of the many boat tours that depart daily from Listvyanka. For a more high-octane experience, hydrofoils leave from Listvyanka and Bolshoi Koty, offering spectacular views at high speeds. Winter and summer dives can be organised by the Dive Baikal group, who also offer cruises, ice-jeep safaris and special New Year dives on a boat equipped with karaoke and sauna. For more information, visit http://www.baikaldiving.ru/en/. The water visibility can reach up to 40 meters (130 feet) on clear days, making Lake Baikal one of the world’s most revered dive locations.  

For a more relaxed experience, the Circumbaikal Railway offers a one-day trip around the shoreline, starting at Slyudyanka and terminating at the Baikal Settlement. Offering spectacular views of the lake in summer and winter, the train passes through 35 tunnels, including one that spans over 700 meters (2,296 feet). Tickets can be arranged at the Listvyanka Tourist Information Center, where some English is spoken. More information about the history and construction of the Circumbaikal Railway can be found at http://kbzd.irk.ru/Eng/catalog.htm.

If you’re looking to ditch the crowds, Baikal offers excellent camping, biking and hiking, with fireplaces and free tent sites dotted at regular intervals along the shore. Campsites are also available on Olkhon Island and around Listvyanka and Bolshoi Koty. However, anyone thinking of roughing it should definitely come prepared, as toilets are usually only available in town.

When you’re ready to get back to civilization, or if you need to warm up after a dip in Baikal’s icy depths, the hot springs of Arshan offer a welcome retreat. Located on the southwestern tip of the lake at the base of the Sayan Mountains, Arshan village is a great place to soak weary muscles, start or finish a hike, or visit a Buryat temple.

Getting There:

Most visitors to Lake Baikal start their journey in the Siberian town of Irkutsk, a charming town once known as the ‘Paris of Siberia.’ Though well past its glory days, Irkutsk still has a lot to offer, including an international airport that offers connections to many local and international destinations. Irkutsk is also a major stop on the Trans-Siberian Railway route.

Buses from Irkutsk to Listvyanka leave daily from the Irkutsk bus station. In June and July, hydrofoils from Irkutsk to Bolshoi Koty and Listvyanka depart from the Raketa Hydrofoil Port (bus route 16). 

About the Author

Adele Smith is a writer from Australia. She has lived and worked in many countries around the world, including Germany, Japan and Russia. In her spare time she enjoys camping, cycling and visiting unique places.