The Islands of Palau

Adventure Travel in Palau

The Republic of Palau is a small archipelago of eight main islands and more than 250 smaller ones, located about 800 kilometers (500 miles) southeast of the Philippines. The Palauan Islands are part of an island group known as the Caroline Islands. Historically, Palau has been known by a number of other names, including Belau and Pelew.  

Palau has a proud and ancient indigenous culture, which influences life in these islands to this day. The island nation was left nearly untouched by Europeans until well into the 18th century. The history of Europeans in Palau begins with the shipwreck of the East India Company's craft Antelope off the island of Ulong in 1783. 

The British Sea Captain Henry Wilson befriended the paramount chief of the island of Koror, the Ibedul, and received from the natives the help that was necessary to continue his voyage. The trust that developed between the Englishman and the Palauan chief was profound enough that the Ibedul permitted his son, Le Boo, to join Wilson on his return voyage to England. The boy became a celebrated figure at the British Court and was dubbed the "Black Prince." The story ends tragically, however, as the boy died of smallpox less than a year after his arrival in England.

With a population of about 21,000 (according to a 2008 estimate), Palau is one of the least populous sovereign countries in the world. It is a former Trust Territory of the United States of America and spent most of the last 150 years as a possession of one foreign nation or another. Palau was controlled in succession by the Spanish, the Germans, the Japanese and finally the Americans. It is also one of the youngest nations in the world, having gained its independence from the U.S. in 1994.

The Palauan ethnicity is not fully understood, but Palauans are generally believed to have a combination of Polynesian, Malayan and Melanesian ancestry. Over the years, people of other ethnicities, including Filipinos, Europeans and Americans, have become part of the Palauan admixture. In addition to its indigenous population, Palau has a substantial foreign worker population. These workers emigrated from places like China, the Philippines and Bangladesh and often times do difficult work for very low wages.

Politics is important in Palau. Palauans are aggressively involved in their country's government. Their legal and political systems are very closely modeled after those of the United States. However, Palau retains much of its traditional social structure. Hereditary titles and clan relationships continue to be important. The successor to the Ibedul, who befriended Captain Wilson, continues to be the paramount chief of the island of Koror to this day.

About 70 percent of the country’s population lives on the small island of Koror, situated near the geographical center of the country. North of Koror is Babeldaob, one of the largest islands this region. There are complex historical reasons why the smaller island of Koror became the predominant island.

South of Koror lies a lagoon, home to the famous Palauan Rock Islands. Hundreds of these limestone islets are scattered throughout the lagoon. Over the centuries, they have taken on a mushroom-like shape because of water currents eroding their bases. The Rock Islands, with their physical beauty and recreational value, are Palau's main visitor attraction.

The area around the Rock Islands offers some of the best diving in the world. Premier dive sites include locations, such as Blue Corner. During the war, a number of Japanese ships were sunk in the lagoon. The ruins of these ships attract wreck divers from all over the world. Palau is also known for its cave diving at sites such as Chandelier Cave.

Palau is of considerable interest to marine scientists because of the wide variety of its flora and fauna. One of most unique features of the Rock Islands is the famous Jellyfish Lake, which is an isolated freshwater lake situated on one of the Rock Islands. The local jellyfish, lacking natural predators, lost their sting since they no longer need it to survive. Thus, visitors to the lake are able to swim in the midst of large schools of these fascinating creatures. The lake is a freshwater lake because it’s fed only by rainwater, and the jellyfish have adapted to the freshwater environment. They feed on the algae that live on the surface of the lake.

The Rock Islands also provide a fine environment for sea kayaking, fishing, sailing and motor boating. South of them lies another populated island called Peleliu, site of a well-known World War II era battle, the Battle of Peleliu. It was fought unnecessarily and had the highest casualty rate of any battle in the Pacific War and as such has been very controversial.  

Palauans have a high level of concern for the environment and a strong tradition of environmental protection. Their former President, Tommy Remengesau, Jr., was named a Hero of the Environment in 2007 by Time magazine. Furthermore, Palauans are known throughout the region for their intelligence and competitiveness. They place a high value on education. Adult literacy is 98 percent and there are a number of public and private high schools. However, the only post-secondary institution is a branch of the College of Micronesia, a community college. That’s why many Palauans are educated abroad, primarily in the United States.

The per capita GDP of the Republic of Palau is $8,100, according to a 2008 estimate. Palauans are employed in the tourist industry, government, commercial and residential construction, fishing and in the legal and medical professions. Palau receives financial aid from the United States government as part of the so-called Compact of Free Association with the U.S., which was part of the treaty arrangement that granted Palau its independence.

Palau offers a varied nightlife, including bars that cater to the expatriate crowd and others that are primarily frequented by locals. There are also Karoake clubs, which are generally staffed by female Filipino and Chinese hostesses. A wide variety of restaurants is available as well, such as Indian, Thai, American, Japanese and Chinese cuisine, plus a number of establishments that exclusively serve local food. 

Tourism is the most important industry in Palau, and the industry, which is already well-developed, continues to expand. Exclusive Japan-based Aman Resorts is in the process of developing a luxury resort in Palau. The Carp Island Resort is a dive resort that is situated on a star-shaped island in the southern part of the lagoon and offers diving, snorkeling and fishing. 

High-end accommodations include the Palau Royal Resort, the Palasia and the five-star Palau Pacific Resort. There are also many less expensive hotels, such as the West Plaza Hotel and the Airai View Hotel for those on a less generous budget. Sam's Tours and the Fish 'n Fins are among the diving outfitters available. Dolphin Pacific offers visitors a chance to swim, dive and socialize with dolphins. More information can be obtained at the Palau Visitor’s Authority website, visit-palau.com.

With an annual mean temperature of 27.7°C (82°F), Palau is an attractive destination year-round. There is considerable rainfall, an average of 3,810 mm (150 inches) annually, which can occur throughout the year, but falls more frequently between July and October. Humidity is generally high, averaging 82 percent.  

Only Continental Micronesia consistently flies to Palau. Other airlines, however, have tried to service the Palauan market in recent years. The list of airlines serving Palau and the availability of flights is constantly changing. A travel agent should be consulted for current information regarding what airlines fly to and from Palau. Continental Airlines has flights to Manila or Guam, larger airports from which more competitively-priced flights can be booked.  

The remoteness and lack of easy air access to Palau from Europe and the United States has placed some limitations on the development of the country's tourist trade. As a tourist destination, Palau remains lesser-known than places like Bali or the Cayman Islands, but in recent years international attention has occasionally focused on Palau. Survivor Palau, an American reality TV show, has aired for two television seasons in the United States and elsewhere. Palau's recent decision to take the Uighur prisoners from America's Guantanamo Bay prison camp also placed Palau in the international spotlight.

About the Author

Keith Peterson is an American lawyer and freelance writer. He lived and worked on several of the islands of Micronesia and Palau for a total of three years. While living in the islands he learned to scuba-dive and spent much of his free time boating, hiking and cycling.  He currently works in the field of international legal system development and continues to write.