Surigao, Philippines

Surigao: Adventure travel in the Philippines

The rain-swept province of Surigao is located at the northernmost tip of Mindanao, the Philippines’ second-largest island. It averages 223 rainy days in a year, particularly during the months of June to January. But despite this seemingly permanent gloomy weather, its inhabitants tenaciously cling to their homeland. Perhaps it is due to the fact that the Surigaonons, are they are called, descended from fierce pre-colonial tribes that repulsed Moro pirates. This was proven later when the locals fought in the national wars against the Spanish and American colonizers as well as the invading Japanese army in World War II.

The local populace suffered greatly during World War II. In the sub-urban villages of Ipil and Mabua (average population: 5,000), stories abound of women and children plunging themselves into mud-filled rice paddies with only their noses sticking out in order to hide from the Japanese soldiers. Conversely and interestingly enough, two topics crop up when you ask the local people about the Japanese: the hardships they had and the alleged treasures that the invaders left in 1946 when they were escaping from the wrath of the returning American army that entered the country via the adjacent province of Leyte.

One couple from Ipil reportedly found dozens rotting wooden crates filled with gold bars buried in their backyard in the 1970s. They had been digging to expand their house. Many people followed suit, digging here and there, often destroying part of their houses to search beneath concrete floors. The “gold fever” further heightened when two Japanese men came and offered to construct a classroom in the local high school grounds. The laborers that they paid told of how the men had a map and instructed them to dig deep.

A few weeks later they were told to stop working when several Japanese men came to take over their jobs. The Japanese left shortly, leaving money for the school-building’s construction with the school officials, leading the populace to believe that they found what they were looking for. Else they wouldn’t have been as generous. It is speculated that the Japanese Imperial Army officials collected their gold both from the government and banking institutions and from looted mines. This is not implausible because Surigao, both in its mainland and island barangays, was noted for natural gold and nickel deposits.

Despite this apparent wealth in natural resources, the majority of the inhabitants of Ipil and Mabua remain poor. Though some fish for a living, most of them are farmers, both averaging an income of 40-60 pesos a day (more or less equivalent to USD$1). Those who managed to acquire college education, which is a tiny percentage of the population, have jobs in the city proper. Many eventually apply for jobs overseas as domestic helpers and construction workers.

Perhaps due to poverty and widespread lack of education, many people still cling to their supernatural beliefs. In Mabua, one man was whispered to be a voodoo practitioner. Every time someone falls sick or dies suddenly or unexpectedly, talks run wild that the death or illness was caused by a hex. In Ipil, there is a belief in a huge wolf-like dog that comes down from the mountains. The moment that this dog is sighted, a chain of deaths, natural or otherwise, ensue. But the most prevalent is that of the local wakwak or witch. In Ipil, many women have been singled out as witches throughout the years, with neighbors reporting of their strange nocturnal activities. In one of the most celebrated stories, a man supposedly saw a log floating down a stream. When it touched the bank, it turned into a huge black pig. Upon seeing him, the pig rushes towards the man, ensuing in a grapple. The man managed to take out his pocket knife and slash at the pig’s front left foot.

The next day, he visited the neighborhood’s purported witch, and upon seeing her left shoulder bandaged up, concludes that it she that he saw the previous night. Generally, however, the “witches” are not harmed. The locals have a saying that goes, “Witches are better than thieves because witches don’t prey on their neighbors.” But the alleged witches are shunned, for fear of incurring their ire or of being “infected.” A wakwak supposedly cannot die unless it passes on its “affliction” to someone else. This is supposedly done through partaking of food that the witch prepares and offers.

When educated visitors ask about these stories, telling them that these are not scientific, the local folks smile and agree. But shortly, when they fall sick, they all rush to the witch doctors for treatment.  Nevertheless, inhabitants of the coastal and mountain barangays are generally friendly and helpful, especially with foreign nationals. The people are notably fascinated by Caucasians, collectively calling anyone of that color “Kano” (short for Americano). Many can understand English but speak very little or at best, in Pidgin English. If one is lucky, one may meet members of the local mountain tribes (recognizable for their curly hair and dark complexion) offering rare tropical orchids for sale.

Ipil and Mabua are located roughly 10 and 11 kilometers (6.2 and 6.8 miles) from the city proper. Due to the distance and lush vegetation and mangrove and coconut plantations along the way, there are no landline telephone lines in the area. Four Philippine mobile phone networks service the area though. Piped water and electricity aren’t a problem too.  There are three main stores selling general merchandise but many small “sari-sari stores” (literally “variety store”) dot the landscape, selling commodities, particularly food, in repacked, smaller amounts.

But amidst the relative remoteness of the area, it boasts of beautiful beaches and rock formations, as well as a unique experience for the foreign eyes, ears, and tastebuds. Notable are the delicacies of Ipil such as the sayongsong, puto, and biko all derived from rice and coconut, and the fresh seafood from Mabua. 

One may also get to observe the local cockfights. Roosters with sharp blades tied to their legs are pitted against each other. The rooster that gets slashed and subsequently dies loses the fight. These cockfights occur every week in the local neighborhoods and as scheduled in the city-owned cockfighting arena.

As for the beaches, there is the Mt. Bagarabon Resort in Mabua, offering beautiful rooms starting at 2,000 pesos (about USD$42) per night. This is located right next to the rock formations of Mabua and the starting point of the annual bancarera competition, a race of motorized boats called banca. Another beach resort, the LS by the Sea, owned by a local family is located in Balete, adjacent to Ipil. Many other resorts are available in the area. Most are frequented by tourists who initially came to visit Siargao, an island municipality two hours away by boat from Surigao City, which is known to be the surfing capital of the Philippines.

There are two ways to reach the province. One is by air, with two local airline companies, Zest Air and Cebu Pacific, offering flights two or three times a week. Locals usually travel by boat as it is cheaper. Two shipping companies service the Cebu*-Surigao route daily. Airfare costs around 2,000 pesos (about USD$42) one-way while the ferry charges around 900 pesos (about USD$19) and 1,500 pesos (about USD$31) for a tourist bed and first-class suite, respectively. Airline tickets can be booked online while ferry tickets are only available at the local ports and ticket outlets.

The best time to visit the province would be from February to May when it is warmer and sunnier. But for those who want to see storm swells and hear the raindrops fall on palm and coconut leaves outside their rented resort rooms, you may visit anytime!

*Cebu is the second main urban center south of Manila, which serves as the connecting point to several minor provinces. It has an international airport and seaport.

About the Author

Kei Valmoria is a writer currently residing in Cebu City, Philippines. She is doing graduate studies in Anthropology and has lived in several provinces during her stint as a development worker. In her free time, she writes fiction and poetry. She was recently included in a book anthology of Cebuano poets published by the Philippine National Council for Culture and the Arts.